This is now the third bottle of Tapanappa Tiers Chardonnay 2018 and each time it gets better. Now officially at ‘phwoar’ level.

For a little context about Tiers, you need to start here. In my mind, this is the model of restrained power – an acknowledgement that Chardonnay can be both bold and refreshing, which the best white Burgundy does so well.

This ’18 is a bigger, broader wine than the ’17 vintage release but I think I like it even more. It’s a full-flavoured Chardonnay, all white peach fruit, the oak intertwined throughout the palate, the finish still sprightly and vital, the acidity briny and almost unexpectedly so after the mid palate width. It feels powerful, uncompromisingly varietal… a Chardonnay for Chardonnay drinkers.

Delicious, mouthfilling wine. Best drinking: now to ten years. 18.7/20, 95/100. 13.6%, $90. Would I buy it? Yes.