Porongurup is a beautiful place to grow grapes. The whole area feels special, with an x-factor aura that feels still untapped – and the Diletti’s at Castle Rock are right up at the pointy end.

This Castle Rock Riesling 2019, however, is in desperate need of time. Quality is not an issue – never is here – but it’s not approachable at all. It’s crystalline and pure, if reductive, the palate long and linear but offering up little besides lemongrass and lemony acidity. Best drinking: Come back early next year. Or ideally in 3-5 years time. Will live for decades.17/20, 90/100+. 12%, $25. Castle Rock website. Would I buy it? Not yet.