Review: Tahbilk Old Vines Cabernet Shiraz 2017

November 26, 2020

Old vines is the angle behind this Tahbilk Old Vines Cabernet Shiraz 2017, of which Tahbilk has no shortage.

The first note here is alcohol. Then the palate kicks in with fudgey, heavy ripeness, the vanilla oak lifting up the palate, the ripeness fractionally excessive and manifesting itself as a rough and tumble heartiness on the finish. The length rescues this, as those blocky earthy tannins will help it live for 20-30 years. But for now it’s as much a powerhouse red as a cumbersome wine.

Best drinking: in a decade. 17/20, 90/100+. 14.5%, $46.30. Tahbilk website. Would I buy it? Not really. But I’d like a bottle in the cellar for the future.

2017, Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz + Blends, Nagambie Lakes

Andrew Graham was once voted the 23rd most trusted wine critic on the planet. A WCA Journalism Young Gun now old hack with 25yrs as a buyer, judge, journalist, marketer and too much more.

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6 responses to “Review: Tahbilk Old Vines Cabernet Shiraz 2017”

Bob

November 26, 2020 at 10:33 pm

Wish they’d ease off a bit and use a lighter touch. You get to a certain stage of life when the idea of cellaring a wine becomes less interesting.

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Andrew Graham

November 27, 2020 at 8:10 am

Less would be more – especially on the ripeness front. More Central Vic. luncheon claret ala Tahbilk of 30 years ago.

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Mahmoud Ali

November 27, 2020 at 6:03 pm

Hi Bob,

I used to like the idea that the wines I bought to cellar would last decades but, like you, with age I am no longer interested in wines that needs years to mature. It’s prt of growing older and having shorter time horizons. We just need to buy different wines and drink the ones we cellared. These wine are meant for the young ones with stars in their eyes.

Cheers …………………………….. Mahmoud.

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Bob

November 27, 2020 at 7:17 pm

It’s more that I feel most Australian “old family” wines have become over alcoholic , over oaked and lacking in nuance. I reckon they should pick a little earlier and rely more on grape than “seasonings”.

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Joseph Autufuga

June 26, 2021 at 2:55 am

Hi we were trying to get information on a bottle A friend of mine received …..

1967 Vintage
Chateau Tuhbilk Shiraz
13 FL.02.

Would you kindly be able to send us informative details on or about this wine bottle?.

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Andrew Graham

June 26, 2021 at 8:05 am

I don’t have much advice, except to say the old Tahbilk’s can be magical wines. Contact the winery direct for more info – tahbilk.com.au

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