Old vines is the angle behind this Tahbilk Old Vines Cabernet Shiraz 2017, of which Tahbilk has no shortage.
The first note here is alcohol. Then the palate kicks in with fudgey, heavy ripeness, the vanilla oak lifting up the palate, the ripeness fractionally excessive and manifesting itself as a rough and tumble heartiness on the finish. The length rescues this, as those blocky earthy tannins will help it live for 20-30 years. But for now it’s as much a powerhouse red as a cumbersome wine.
Best drinking: in a decade. 17/20, 90/100+. 14.5%, $46.30. Tahbilk website. Would I buy it? Not really. But I’d like a bottle in the cellar for the future.