This Yangarra Roux Beaute Roussanne 2018 is challenging white wine. Clever, ambitious, and built for the long term. But it almost needs to come with a disclaimer – ‘read winemaking notes before consuming’ as it’s just not your usual fruit-forward white. It’s almost like the bracing whites of Jura, except in topped up, less oxidative mode (and obvs less acidity).

I dip my lid at the handling. Winemaking kitchen sink territory. Handpicked fruit, with 50% of the must sent to concrete egg fermenter where it spends 193 days on skins. The other 50% sees no skin contact. Final blend 40/60 skin vs no skins. Wowsers thats involved. You can taste that phenolic tang too. Importantly,it doesn’t fall into the trap of harsh tannins, the texture masterfully fine. It’s appley and quite full through the middle, but again the finish is taut, bracing, restraining. The whole package feels like its wound up too tight, the full expression simmering below the surface. Admire it I do. Empty bottles of it? Not so much yet.

Best drinking: later. Maybe 2-3 years. 17.7/20, 92/100+. 13.5%, $55. Yangarra website. Would I buy it? Maybe later.