What a track record the recent M3 vintages have enjoyed. Every egg has been a bird. More importantly, this Shaw + Smith M3 Chardonnay 2019 is just a really tasty drink.

What I really like is that it’s actually backed by ripe fruit. Varietal, regional, the whole kitchen sink. Expressive, buttered banana nose and palate, the palate creamy textured but taut to finish, thanks no doubt to the carefully contained MLF, completed with a vein of grapefruit acidity through the finish. Not the anaemic, lean-fruit-and-sulphur- aromas here. Just perfectly poised, pure and correct Chardonnay flavour. A genuine pleasure.

Best drinking: now to five years, though will live longer than that. 18.7/20, 95/100. 13.5%, $49.