For some reason I was sent two bottles of this Curly Flat Chardonnay 2019 for review rather than one. Normally when this happens, my family and friends score the extras. But the other bottle here is going straight to the pool room/my shitty Vintec knock off.

It’s a delicious Chardonnay that tastes like Chardonnay, even at low alcohol. That’s a rare feat, especially for the Macedon Ranges, where early picked can mean wines that taste like a sparkling base (ie teeth enamel stripping hard work).

This white is evocative. There’s some cookie dough and mealy oak/lees on the nose but the palate doesn’t follow through with the suggested width. No, it’s lean and taut. There are layers too – oak and winemaking playing a part, but the fruit well up to the job.

Complex and fresh? Goldilocks wine this, and utterly involving because of it. I’m a fan, clutching the other bottle merrily.

Best drinking: now to eight years. 18.7/20, 95/100. 12.7%, $46 direct from the winery (website here). Would I buy it? In a heartbeat.