Woah. Deadly serious Yarra sparkling is this Seville Estate Blanc de Blancs 2017. Wild fermented, barrel matured, spends 10 months in old barrels, 30 months on lees and zero dosage. Bottled under crown seal. Vinous style with sharp acidity and a lean profile, it’s very taut, ultimately to the point of being a bit ungenerous. I like the aperitif appeal, but I want a bit more cuddles and less hard edges. Still smart.

Best drinking: now to five years easy. 17.5/20, 91/100. 12%, $55. Would I buy it? A glass or two.