Merlot is dead and buried as a straight variety in Australia. As a blending component it has a place, but really, lots of Merlot vines would be ideally grafted over to (climatically better suited) Mediterranean varieties (in my opinion).

There are a few exceptions, largely in WA (with a shout out to Merite in Wrattonbully) where better clones and better focus can deliver rare glory. Indeed this Windfall Estate Single Handed Merlot 2018 is solid (and varietal), Geographe putting its hand up for solid drinks once again.

Gently leafy style this, although with a slightly syrupy core, before a drying finish. Definitely some varietal charisma here, even if it’s a bit spirity to finish. Not bad! Has some genuine Merlot charisma if a little too ripe, and ultimately reminding that if you take the variety seriously, there’s hope.

Best drinking: over the next eight years. 17.7/20, 92/100. 14.5% $32. Windfall Estate website. Would I buy it? A glass or two for sure.