During long runs, when my internal monologue is the main thing to keep me company, I wonder about questions liks this.
Why do people fawn over aged reds, when there is just as much (if not more) deliciousness, profundity, and naked terroir expression in great unoaked whites like this Pewsey Vale The Contours Riesling 2015?
That’s a weird thing to be thinking about when I’m running, I’ll give you that. But it’s also a fair call, and pondering odd rhetorical questions (like why do people with sunny, north facing roofs not have solar panels?) is what I do.
When you think about it, it’s not like the terroir is inferior. The Pewsey vineyard has proven superstar cred. Admittedly, the winemaking skill here is more about preserving freshness than trying to blend or craft or massage. But that shouldn’t detract from the glory of the finished wine.
So really, it’s just about fashion. Aged reds must be better because they’re red. Or something.
This 2015 ‘Museum Release’ is a magnificent dry Riesling too. It feels special. Something beyond just another white wine. There are these multiple shades of flavour and development to nose and palate that make it an experience. At once, you call it toasty and mouthfilling. But the cut of lime juice acidity also means it tastes young and taut. Fresh-faced and contemporary. Mature yet not old. Still greenish and still a wine in motion.
In the context of Contours, this 2015 is par for the course. Another great release, though maybe not the absolute best (just a bit full for that). It’s just that the Contour standard is so bloody high that a ‘very good’ wine here is, to use a lame golf nod, a hole in one for great dry Australian Riesling.
Yet trying to buy a wine like this (or indeed equivalent aged Sem etc) is too easy, when it should be a tightly allocated tussle.
Ultimately, I don’t have the answers about this Resling’s popularity (or not). But I do know it’s a glorious drink for comparatively few dollars.
Best drinking: now to ten plus if you want. 12.5%, $40. 18.7/20, 95/100. Pewsey Vale website. Would I buy it? Shit yeah.
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8 Comments
Interesting. I wonder what the market is in Oz for buying ‘pre-aged’ wine generally?
From my own perspective, I’m not that keen to spend extra money on it, now that I’ve built up enough of my own cellar wines from which to draw, when I want one.
Although an aged Riesling would certainly be one I may splurge on…
Agree it’s probably a red/white thing. Red certainly has the status. I brought a few reds back from Sonoma a couple of years ago and the heft of their bottles is ridiculous! Designed to make them feel more important, I’m told. 🙂
I wonder about the appetite for pre-aged wines too. Though it’s not like there is a price premium on this Contours. It’s cheap, in context.
Andrew, you’re right, but don’t spread the word too much otherwise the price of these beauties will keep rising. Same with aged Semillon. Nectar! Ambrosia! Both wines are superb as young fresh companions to seafood etc., but truly shine when aged well. I’ve been lucky enough to enjoy both young & old PVR for about 40 years and it’s always quality. I still have one 2005 Pooley Riesling and all consumed so far have been fabulous! Just bought, but am yet to have my first Raveneau 1er Cru (a 2015 MdT) and I hope my palate is finally worthy of it. As always, thanks for your insight AG.
Pleasure Robin. Oh and apologies for talking too much about aged Riesling!
Hi Graham sorry bit late with this comment on aged Reisling. I couldn’t agree more with you. Reisling is a noble grape and needs aging but I suppose I never buy enough to keep long enough. Don’t know why because they are usually amazing value for money.
Food for thought thank you.
Had some 2012 Mort’s Block from Kilikanoon as a tasting last week. Layers of flavour there has me sold. Have enjoyed the Pewsey Prima so will be curious to see how the Contours is. (prima is basically the cusp of sweetness I can handle, I’ve found French/German variants tend to go too far in that spectrum) Bought a bottle to test out haha
Don’t give up on the French & German Riesling. Some sublime Grosses Gewachs out there to change your mind.
“Why aren’t aged whites more popular?”
“Because people are idiots”
Andrew – I completely agree with you. Australia’s aged Rieslings and Semillions are absolute bargains for quality you get.