It’s a pleasure to watch a young wine label grow into something more interesting, and all the Sunshine Creek wines have enjoyed an upward quality trajectory in recent years. I like ’em, especially this old school Sunshine Creek Chardonnay 2018.

Rich, golden white in a proudly richer style. Nutty, some worked matchstick sulphur characters on a palate that threatens to be too much, too golden with mandarin, lemon butter the lot. But for all the ripeness and flow, it’s all well contained and enjoyably big-boned. It even comes sealed with a cork. Nice traditional Chardonnay this. Best drinking: good to go. 18/20, 93/100. 13.5%, $45. Would I buy it? Yes, well worth a bottle.