Chablis in the headlights with this Coola Road Chardonnay 2019 and it’s pretty good.

From Mount Gambier Chardonnay, this is an ultra delicate style with light touch oak and a very restrained profile. Nice purity about this wine, even if it’s a bit lean and underdone – but that’s the trade-off no? Vitality vs flavour? I maybe pick up white peach at a stretch but otherwise light on. I don’t mind it as a drink for that purity of expression, but I want a bit more flavour as it ends up a bit shrill through the finish. More flavour please, but still entirely drinkable.

Coola Road Chardonnay 2019. Best drinking: now to five years or more. It’s not going anywhere with that acidity. 17.5/20, 91/100. 12.8%, $22. Coola Road website. Would I buy it? A glass.