Michael Ng landed at Silkwood Estate in 2018 and it signalled a real turnaround in quality. This Silkwood Estate The Bowman Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2019 is easily the best Silkwood Pinot yet – a premium single vineyard Great Southern Pinot of some appeal.

In particular, the bacon bits and dry-reddishness of yore is gone, now replaced with sappy red fruits, a silken palate, and finessed tannins. It still retains a little Pemberton mint, and hardly delicate, but this feels bright, vibrant and well balanced (which doesn’t always happen with Pemberton Pinot) in a ripe, red-fruited form with sturdy, almost furry tannins. A good mouthful and long too. Hello!

Silkwood Estate The Bowman Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2019. Best drinking: will probably be even better next year, but good now. 18/20, 93/100. 14%, $55. Silkwood website. Would I buy it? Worth sharing a bottle.