Craiglee has one of the grand old sites for Australian wine, and the Carmody’s are great people. The Shiraz from here, in particular, is always effortless, always endearing. Indeed the only thing that Craiglee needs to worry about is being swallowed up by Melbourne suburbia, especially with the airport almost next door to the Sunbury vineyard.

I’ve not had a Craiglee wine in some time, and this Craiglee Shiraz 2017 is a little showcase of all that is good.

Succulent, beautifully balanced, mid-weight Victorian Shiraz. The graceful power here aligns with other Vic Shiraz classics like Mount Langi Shiraz, Best’s Bin 0 et al. Force in a velvet glove. Raspberry fruit is the champion, ripe, gentle, but not underpowered. Plenty of acidity, too, and the tannins have a faint bitterness, just to ground things. Has this beautiful, gently mushroom edge to the red fruit for interest – a crafted, timeless wine.

Craiglee Shiraz 2017. Best drinking: now, or in twenty years. That balance (and a screwcap) ensures it will live forever. 18.5/20, 94/100. 13.5%, $60. Craiglee Vineyard website. Would I buy it? Sure would.