This is the top dog Chardonnay for Silkwood, and it’s unquestionably stylish. Style, vitality, but maybe a little too lean – that the overall impression with this Silkwood Estate The Bowman Chardonnay 2019.

It’s a delicate, early picked, and appley style of Pemberton Chardonnay, with the palate lightness offset by some winemaking layers. Milk bottle sulphur characters, apple juice and a whiff of cream and shaving cream. It’s just-ripe, gentle and elegant, but a bit too light to be great – it’s almost sparkling base. Excellent freshness though, and it will get better.

Silkwood Estate The Bowman Chardonnay 2019. Best drinking: 12 months could really help this. And it will live for a decade based on that acidity. 17.7/20, 92/100+. 12.5%, $55. Silkwood website. Would I buy it? A glass or two.