They’re playing swapsies at Yangarra and Hickinbotham, with the Hickinbotham Clarendon Vineyard Grenache fruit going over to its McLaren vale brethren for the first time in 2019. Given that Peter Fraser has control of both Hickinbotham and Yangarra winemaking tillers, it’s more an ethos thing than different making. Unsurprising that this Yangarra Hickinbotham Grenache 2019 is very very good.

Handpicked, fermented in amphorae and spends 90 days on skins. Then 8 months further in amphora post pressing. ph 3.45, TA 6.4g/L. Notably, yields are at grand Cru levels – 33hl/ha. Burgundy, eat your close-planted heart out.

Only light coloured. The nose throws a little VA but also this raspberry juiciness that is so far from the old school South Australian Grenache mode. Medium-bodied with this sappy, Pinot-esque fruit, the long long palate drying, vaguely soapy in texture, with thick grained tannins. It’s a little wilder than anything you’d expect from the more buttoned-down Clarendon Vineyard style, with an oxidative edge that might be divisive. But gee the length and the perfumed charisma here is inviting. I like.

Yangarra Hickinbotham Grenache 2019. Best drinking: now and for plenty (at least a decade) of years yet. Those are fortifying tannins. 18.5/20, 94/100. 14.5%, $60. Yangarra website. Would I buy it? Worth a bottle.