While this Yangarra High Sands Grenache 2018 is the pinnacle of the Yangarra Grenache tree in price, it’s not always my favourite wine in the lineup. Call it personal tastes, but also a realisation that these are not homogeneous, Penfolds-esque template wines. Vive la différence!

From the old Yangarra vines, this spent 11 months in old oak and ceramic egg. Numbers: pH 3.27. TA 6.7g/L.

A deceptively lovely wine it is too. Manages to be effortlessly drinkable, with slightly volatile, bright red fruit, fine-grained tannins, a jubey sense of fruit vibrancy, excellent intensity.

Is it profound? That’s always my arbiter between good and great. At first, I wrote it off as a bit one speed. But there are these layers of anise, and something ferrous through the middle which marks this as ‘not just another Grenache’. Importantly, this is also a lovely drink. Super wine.

Yangarra High Sands Grenache 2018. Best drinking: now and for at least ten years, likely many more (but I like it now). 18.7/20, 95/100. 14.5%, $200. Yangarra website. Would I buy it? I’m not sure I’d spend the dollars on it. I’d drink all of it you give me, though.