Yarra Valley Cabernet that has a foot in both camps – this Boat O’Craigo Braveheart Cabernet Sauvignon 2018  isa little Yarra claret, a little more contemporary riper style.

Pencil shavings, leafy minty hints, but then dives into blackberry and currant berry fruit. It’s just a little rounded at the edges, but that gives breadth to the palate and it doesn’t lose acidity. Well-handled tannins top it all off. Good.

Best drinking: now to the mid-2030s. 17.7/20, 92/100. Boat O’Craigo website.  13.6%, $35. Would I buy it? Worth a few glasses.