Soumah’s Chardonnay is the star, but this Soumah Equilibrio Pinot Noir 2019 is dead serious stuff. Almost too serious.

It’s firm, stemmy, meaty and rather hulking Yarra Valley Pinot that pitches for structure rather than seduction. It’s long, with layers of red fruit, eucalypt, and then sappy tannins. It’s just a little resinous on the finish, but the form here is still impressive and no questioning the length, even if I want a bit more affability.

Soumah Equilibrio Pinot Noir 2019. Best drinking: 17.7/20, 92/100. 13.5%, $80. Soumah website. Would I buy it? A glass.