Welcome to another definitive Nero from Paul & Laurie at Eldorado Road.

I was a big fan of the standard Nero from Eldorado tasted a little while back, and this Eldorado Road Riserva Nero d’Avola 2019 is even more serious again. Maybe too serious.

Just 87 dozen of this northern Victorian Nero were produced. Sheesh. Two different ferments, some with whole bunches, all wild ferment – plenty happening in the winery. It all makes for an even more complex take compared to the deliciously affable Comrade Nero. Fennel, red meat, red fruit, proper tannins, a backdrop of something brambly too. It’s a bit more raw compared to the standard wine, but crafty too. It’s the sort of wine that you wouldn’t pick straight away as a Nero – it seems too dark, too wild for that. Aside from a cadre of top Sicilians, you just don’t see the grape taken this seriously.

The overall picture is of an impressive Australian Nero d’Avola of impact and style. At this stage, it is a step behind it’s young brother in the development stakes (as the score reflects), but no questioning the conclusion – it’s a top flight Nero.

Best drinking: later. Two or three years wouldn’t hurt at all. Then for a decade. 18/20, 93/100+. 13.7%, $65. Eldorado Road website. Would I buy it? A glass now, but a whole bottle of the Comrade Nero. Hmmm.