Not much Graciano planted in Australia. Not much planted anywhere else for that matter, but it is coming back to favour in Rioja, and most of my context is about Rioja too. Fun fact: Graciano is identical to Sardegna’s Bovale Sardo & Cagnulari (which I haven’t tried. I drank beer. Vermentino & Cannonau in that order when in Sardegna).

Anyway, this Steels Gate Graciano 2019 comes from a vineyard in Nagambie. Tangy, red fruited, and yet has a distinct red earth Nagambie vibe. i always think of Graciano as being about cranberry, and this fits, with cranberry, cherry and then that earth and tannins. The finish is a bit sour, but the overall effect is good earthen appeal. Would it be even better plumped out with some ripe Tempranillo? Now there’s a question. Solid+.

Steels Gate Graciano 2019. Best drinking: now and for another decade. 17.5/20, 91/100. 13.4%, $50. Steels Gate website. Would I buy it? A glass.