What a pleasure to check in on another top dog Chardonnay from the Burch family (after the Marchand & Burch) that really delivers. This Howard Park Allingham Chardonnay 2018 comes off the family’s Allingham property in Margaret River, the fruit handpicked, hand-sorted, with the juice then wild fermented in barrel (40% new oak) with a shortish 9 months in wood.

It’s a lovely wine too. Custard, milk powder, lots of layers here – the full kitchen sink. But it works. Nutty, golden, this really moreish texture with enough acidity and lots of flavour. The richness expansive, the acidity just right. It feels complete, encompassing, yet vital and simply delicious. Ace.

Howard Park Allingham Chardonnay 2018. Best drinking: I like it now, no hurry though – it will still be healthy in five years. 18.7/20, 95/100. 13%, $89. Howard Park website. Would I buy it? Well worth a bottle.