No matter what happens, there will always be a place in the world for thick, full-flavoured South Australian reds. And when they’re delivered for just $20, like this Longhop Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, it’s impossible to argue against the appeal.

From the Adelaide Plains, this is treacly, tarry, rich and mouth-filling red, in a mode that is more South Aussie than Cabernet, a slick of vanilla adding more sweetness, the finish warm and luscious, with rum and raisin and acres of thick flavour.

Inelegant and warm but mouthfilling in every way. Will be so popular, even if it’s not my chosen style.

Longhop Cabernet Sauvignon 2019. Best drinking: now to at least five years. 16.5/20, 88/100. 14%, $20. Longhop website. Would I buy it? A glass is enough for me. But I know plenty of people who will drink oceans of this.