Freshness, that’s the main game with this Hungerford Hill Tumbarumba Chardonnay 2021.

It’s such a light and airy Chardonnay. White flower and marzipan, milky peach fruit with acidity to the fore. Very tight and citrusy, with waves of lemony acidity matching with that delicacy of white peach fruit and a little funk. Good, finessed wine with enough fruit to be drinkable. Would I like more oomph? Maybe. But the freshness is super.

Best drinking: over the next five years. It might be better next year, too. 17.7/20, 92/100. 13%, $40. Hungerford Hill website. Would I buy it? Worth a few glasses.