Top tier. Top Tiers.
This Tapanappa Tiers Chardonnay 2021 is just a super Chardonnay. Something that does justice to the Tiers name, from a great (cool vintage), and in classical form. It’s a winning wine, that has but one flaw – it’s too young.
Before you dive into this review, can I recommend you start with a whole smorgasbord of Tiers notes and more context here?, It just helps to give a bit more insight.
Suffice to say this Tapanappa Tiers Chardonnay 2021 is one of the best. Golden white peach. There is right fruit here, captain! Lovely, stony rich fruit, if still contained by woolly funk, clay and vanilla bean oak and white peach. The palate is much more bracing – all taut lemon citrus. This is Chardonnay of contrasts – there is peachy expression and ripeness, but it feels tightly wound through the palate – especially the citrusy, acid-shaped middle and finish, though you’d still call the finish generous enough. That’s what keeps you coming though – a bit of light and shade, fruit and oak to seduce, but that scything acid to keep you in your place.
Real intellectual wine, without being hard or anaemic – oh yes, it’s my bag. Viewed in the scheme of Tiers over the years, this is a great year like the phenomenal 2016 before it. No fears with this Tiers. Or tears, for that matter (I’ll see myself out). I’d still prefer to drink it later, however, hence the little plus sign at the end of the score. This has range to improve even more.
Great Chardonnay, in any (computer character) language.
Best drinking: you heard the man, wait a year or three. Then drink over ten years. 18.7/20, 95/100+. 13.4%, $110. Tapanappa website. Would I buy it? This or a bottle of possibly ho-hum 1er cru Burgundy. You know the answer…
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2 Comments
Hi Andrew,
From the outset I must acknowledge I don’t necessarily understand Chardonnay (perhaps I don’t drink enough of it, though I’m trying to rectify that).
A nice enough drop overall but the prices are often jaw dropping for what they offer on the palate.
Q. What’s with the the descriptor “intensity”? I see it in so many Chardonnay reviews. Is this a current “stylistic” descriptor being targeted by producers or generally just typical of Oz Chardonnay overall?
Not at all a criticism of the reviewer, just an observation.
Thanks Andrew
Cheers Colin. Intensity is a favoured descriptor for me as it the most unifying mark of quality (along with length). If you read me banging about intensity of flavour, it means something that stands out for its impact, and in Chardonnay I think it’s a good thing.
There is an ongoing trend towards delicacy in mod Aussie Chardonnay, with earlier picking, less new oak, less time in wood, restricted malolactic fermentation and less battonage, but for mine it comes at a cost of flavour. The holy grail – which wines like this Tapanappa show – is to have that hit of flavour through the palate, but still taste fresh and lively.
If you haven’t fallen in love with Chardonnay then never fear – Riesling has your back!