Something of a trove of Pinot Noir reviews hitting the site this week (and some Prosecco). To kick if off comes this deadly serious Even Keel Pinot Noir 2021 from the Mornington Peninsula.

This is maybe too serious. It’s shaped by spice, stems and red fruit. it’s not hard, but acidity and tannins make this more  savoury than easygoing. It’s a fine, fruit-backward, delicate wine to impress anyone who thinks Australia can’t make serious Pinot Noir. Is it a bit too early picked and in need of a bit more generosity? Also likely.

Best drinking: over the next five years. 17/20, 90/100. 12.8%, $40. Even Keel website. Would I buy it? A glass or two.