The modern push to friskier, medium-bodied wines throws up some delights, doesn’t it? They don’t always work, and there is a fine line between ‘light’ and ‘thin’ but the best wines deliver a drinkability is so welcome.

Of course, the general public apparently only drink big reds – at least, according to my local RSL club, where 7/10 red wines on a recent visit were Shiraz or Cab.

Sigh.

Anyway, for today’s exhibit of the joys of mediumness, witness this Rising Cabernet Franc 2021.

From a “tiny” block on the Roundstone Vineyard (which was was scorched back in the 2009 Yarra bushfires), with 50% whole bunches, matured in all old oak.

Bright purple colour, there is some of that capsicum/cinnamon/red fruit vibe that marks the wines of Chinon, if you’re after a reference point. Importantly, this fruit isn’t underripe, just herbaceous. The palate too is lively, red fruited, tangy, riper than you think, a little chewy, and definitely charismatic. It’s not going to win trophies with it’s occasional pointy edge, but the ‘picnic wine that is more serious than you think’ stakes, it’s a win.

Best drinking: over the next few years. Don’t delay, drink it fresh. 17.7/20, 92/100. 13%, $35. Rising website. Would I buy it? Worth a bottle.