They’re pretty serious wines these Anselmi ‘Soave that can’t be called Soave’ . This Anselmi Capitel Croce 2021 is 100% Garganega that spent 8 months in older oak.

In a clear bottle with a cheap plastic label, and with the straw yellow juice, it all looks a smidgen 90s/early noughties. It’s what’s inside that counts Andrew! This is a tight, coiled white with lots of grip, the palate all firm waxy preserved lemon and a sense of tangy restraint. Ripe fruit, though, which all bodies will for the future, and no questioning that lemon power. It needs a good year to come together and round the tart edges though. Definitely high-quality Soave.

Best drinking: next year or the year after even. 17.7/20, 92/100. 13%, $60. Would I buy it? A glass for now.