Oooh a Viognier streak! Don’t get those very often. This Balgownie Estate Viognier 2021 is fabulous too. Wild fermented in barrel it has this evocative, proudly varietal nose that is just intoxicating. Orange blossom, apricots, honey. Hello Condrieu! The palate is a cascade of flavours too – barley sugar sweet fruit, but with acidity and phenolic grip. Perfectly ripe, that’s the crux. The apricot varietal stamp is so strong, without excess too, which is black belt Viognier work. My only suggestion is that you’ll want to drink it right now before it gets wider and more honeyed.

Best drinking: nowish. 18/20, 93/100. 13%, $35. Balgownie website. Would I buy it? Two glasses.