I was banging on last week about the quality of the Greywacke range for what Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc can achieve in the right hands. This Deep Down Sauvignon Blanc 2021 is another that I really like, from an organic lo-fi Marlborough producer making wines that feel different – more concentrated, more intriguing – to the norm.

Certified organic, the fruit sent to old barrel and tank for wild fermentation. There are all the classic top notes – intense passionfruit for starters. It’s the palate where the real appeal lies – excellent intensity, a real compact passionfruit thickness, and it fans out nicely through the tail into chalky, ripe intensity. Top tier Sauv, if based on the palate weight alone, it only needs a final gear of complexity. Best drinking: now. 18/20, 93/100. 12.5%, $40. Deep Down website. Would I buy it? Well worth sharing a bottle.