Dave Bicknell is an Australian Chardonnay superhero. Is it little wonder that this Oakridge Blanc de Blancs 2016 is a complex, and involving wine?

Matured for five years on lees, and it shows. All Yarra fruit, the nose is chock full of marzipan and waxy lemon, with leesy nutty layers woven through the nose and palate. To say it has a bit going on is underplaying it – this is a complex beast, lemon at one point, lanolin and cream at another. The only thing missing is a little delicacy as it dips into complexity-over-purity that long lees aged fizz can show. Still, a proper mouthful of a sparkling.

Best drinking: now. 18/20, 93/100. 12.5%, $65. Oakridge website. Would I buy it? Worth sharing a bottle.