These Deep Down wines are seriously exciting. Organic, lofi Marlborough releases of uncommon intensity. Seriously uncommon. There seems to more layers, more width, extra everything. It doesn’t always work – this Deep Down Arneis 2021 pushes the cheesy grippy edges of the variety – but man there is excitement under this label.

Indeed there is a Kaleidoscopic nose on this Arneis. Hay, fennel, straw, some cashew butter nutty oxidative edges. The lot. The palate manages to be a this big wall of cheesy citrus and pear fruit with skin contact grip and push. The acidity feels lower than it might actually be, which just makes the palate seem broad, but expansive. So much going on – concentration for days, even if it’s just a smidgen wooly and wild. Impressive, if not an easy wine.

Best drinking: now. 18/20, 93/100. 12.5%, $55. Deep Down Wines (or the Australian importer Single Vineyard Sellers). Would I buy it? Let’s share a bottle.