Quality Chardonnay is always appreciated in the Graham house. While Riesling is clearly my thing, Chardonnay will win over everyone. And this About Time Wines Woodside Chardonnay 2021 has it all going on too.

Firstly, About Time Wines is the project of Henry Borchardt (winemaker) and James McLeay (chardonnay lover). I like the handling too – fruit off a single vineyard in Woodside, whole bunch pressed into half new oak, fermented wild, bottled unfined and unfiltered.

From the outset, this smells great. A full throttle expression of worked Chardonnay, with banana cream, oatmeal, lemon and custard apple. Lees, oak, fruit. Everything. The nose and palate is tightly connected with both a foundational acid backbone and a proper, ‘let’s go to Chardonnay town’ of leesy oatmeal and marzipan and lemon. It’s all just right, and textural and full. Maybe a little broad to finish, but that’s part of the deal.

I like this sort of expression so much.

Best drinking: good now. 18.5/20, 94/100. 12.9%, $43. About Time Wines website. Would I buy it? Sure would.