They’re always such hearty wines from Chapel Hill. Sometimes too warm/firm/dense, but you’ll never die wondering. This Chapel Hill The MV Mourvedre 2021 is more vibrant and less chewy than usual, too, with dusty chocolate oak and plum fruit with a mid-palate ripeness that is more McLaren Vale than Mourvedre. Black jellybean and cola, but underneath, the palate is lifted by a slick of vanilla bean oak and that black jube generosity through the middle. It’s a fraction too glossy to be great, but again, this is plenty of wine in a proper McLaren Vale style.

Best drinking: over the next five to eight years. 17.5/20, 91/100. 14.5%, $30. Chapel Hill website. Would I buy it? A glass or two.