I’m working my way through all the Sapling Yard wines with this smart Chardonnay next (ping Simon Colwell).

Tumbarumba fruit here, and it spent 8 months in 25% new oak, which is a very light touch. It is a delicate white, too, with that classic Tumby mineral water freshness. This Sapling Yard Pirouette Chardonnay 2021 smells of white flowers and a little marzipan over a palate of lemon and grapefruit with a sort of perfumed, light-touch creaminess driving things along. Don’t come looking for power, but enjoy the gentle nectarine fruit and clever use of oak. It’s maybe a bit primal, but a lovely sort of drink.

Best drinking: good now and for the next five years for a start. 17.7/20, 92/100. 12.8%, $38. Sapling Yard website. Would I buy it? I’d share a bottle.