Review: Shaw + Smith Lenswood Vineyard Chardonnay 2021. Is it too perfect?

Masterful. That’s the best way to describe nearly everything that comes out from the Shaw & Smith stable, from the surprise packet Riesling to Hills benchmark Shiraz. This Shaw + Smith Lenswood Vineyard Chardonnay 2021 is every bit the polished experience, too – a precise expression of modern Adelaide Hills Chardonnay with crystalline acidity and perfect banana cream stone fruit delicacy. It’s a wine to admire, with just this perfect acidity and fine lines. But there’s a voice in the back of my brain that finds it too perfect. It’s like that overt precision means it lacks a little x-factor. It’s too pure, and the less pure M3 might be a more interesting wine. Eh, it’s still high-quality, gold medal stuff, but a fascinating thought exercise on contemporary Chardonnay.

Best drinking: now to plenty of years (probably up to ten, but I’d drink within eight). 18.5/20, 94/100. 13%, $95. Shaw + Smith website. Would I buy it? Worth a few glasses.