Such interest here. A prime example of a concept – creating a serious Rhone-inspired white that isn’t just another Marsanne Roussane in McLaren Vale – and executing it well. A blend of 73% Grenache Blanc, 27% Roussanne. Part of the blend spends 112-131 days on skins. The whole lot fermented and matured in concrete eggs. Numbers, for those interested (besides me) – pH 3.41, TA 5g/L.

More about palate structures than aromatics, but that’s not to say this white isn’t fragrant. It’s just a builder rather than a punch around the head, just a flow. Lemon, a little barley, some red apple Roussanne poking through. It never feels large at all, rather refined, really. There’s a flor-like phenolic line through the middle, but it remains a wine of fruit and, importantly, cascading textures. I rather like how it’s nuanced and gently creamy and wheaty. Maybe not profound, but an interesting, appley sort of drink. Hard to escape how the low acid makes this more palatable and so moreish.

Best drinking: nowish. 18/20, 93/100. 13.5%, $68. Yangarra website. Would I buy it? Worth a few glasses at the least.