Ovitelli can be the most interesting wine in the Yangarra range, if purely because of the palate profile – the 133 days it spends on skins in concrete eggs gives it such a different shape to what you expect in archetypal McLaren Vale Grenache. This Yangarra Ovitelli Grenache 2021 spends 13 months total in the eggs too. For the anoraks, some chemistry too – TA 5.3g/L & pH 3.53.

A deliciously tannic Ovitelli. It’s a little less instantly seductive with a varnishy edge this vintage on the nose. The cherry raspberry fruit vibrancy vs sandblasting tannins is intriguing, though. I like that mouthfeel so much, even if it contributes to a style that is less immediate and a bit more raw. Worth a long look, as this is such an interesting wine.

Best drinking: next year, at least, to really come together. 18.5/20, 94/100. 14.5%, $80. Yangarra website. Would I buy it? Let’s share a bottle.