Hello (again) to the value champion of Blanc de Blancs Champagne

Eighty dollars. That’s all a bottle of the Veuve Fourny Blanc de Blancs Brut Vertus Premier Cru NV will set you back (less in a six-pack).

Sure, there are plenty of Blanc de Blancs Champagne at that price here in Australia, but none are as detailed and delicious as this Veuve Fourny. Of course, that isn’t news to any long-time readers of this site, who would have experienced me banging on about all the Veuve Fourny wines the last time Charles Fourny came to town.

Charles Fourny came back a few weeks back and again reminded again why his Blanc de Blancs is one of the few Champagne releases that I regularly buy (there’s a bottle in the Husky fridge right now).

More importantly, Fourny is humble and affable, which is rather rare for famous Champagne house principals. He likes Australian fizz, too, which is even more uncommon.

Yet this isn’t a rare Champagne brand. Annual production is at least 200,000 bottles, and with Australian distribution covered by the De Bortoli family, it’s widely available, too.

But it’s the small differences that count, as Fourny explains. Like how the house hasn’t used traditional liqueur d’expedition for fifteen years, relying on reduced must for flavour balance. That’s not unusual (and beyond Champagne, too – lots of Prosecco producers are doing the same thing in Conegliano Valdobbiadene), but again, small details. Dosage across the portfolio is especially low (typically sub 6g/L), with long lees aging and increased levels of reserve wine (typically kept in oak) the norm.

Again, these aren’t wild things in a region where biodynamics is a regular mantra. But we’re not in Egly Ouriet territory here – the flagship NV Cuvee R is just an AUD $120 wine.

The estate vineyards are substantial, too. Located around the town of Vertus, the family now counts almost 20 hectares of Côte des Blancs vines on their estate, with a shift to regenerative viticulture. The traditional replanting of vineyards on the property stopped thirty years ago, which means the average vine age is now over 45 years.

Ultimately, I just really like these wines. Let’s take a look:

Veuve Fourny Blanc de Blancs Vertus Extra Brut Premier Cru NV

30% reserve wine and 5g/L dosage. ‘We like a rich texture’, notes Fourny. Plenty of battonage and no filtration. ‘We are (also) not afraid of reduction’, which translates into less racking. Some parcels are barrel fermented, some tank. But typically, the best fruit is tank fermented as Charles believes that the best fruit doesn’t need oak.

So good. This is instantly a richer, more extravagant style of BdB and yet a wonderful line through the middle. There’s a custard and brioche on the nose, though it’s as much about rich reserve wine and reduction as it is oak. There is a certain extravagance here, along with the marzipan and white flower prettiness – it’s so fresh but also layered and engrossing. Arguably it’s not as intense or layered as the Cuvee R Champagne below, but consistently I’d rather drink this wine, every time. 18/20, 93/100.

Veuve Fourny Grande Rěserve Vertus Brut Premier Cru NV

A blend of 80% Premier Cru fruit and 20% Grand Cru. 50% reserve wines from cask. 10% from the ‘perpetual reserves’, which is a solera system. 6g/L dosage. Disgorged June 21.

You can see the extra lees age and the Pinot here – to me, it looks toastier, nuttier, more conventional and less beautiful, but certainly grandiose. After the lift and punch of the BdB this feels powerful (hello Pinot Noir influence), but less pretty. Still, proper grandiose Champagne for sub $100. 17.7/20, 92/100.

Veuve Fourny Cuvée R Extra Brut Opulence Premier Cru NV

Named after Charles’ father, Roger. Off the chalk soils, and 100% oak aged. From two vintages – this one is half 2012 and half 2013 vintages. Spends six years on lees; this bottle was disgorged in 2019. 2-3G/L dosage. A style that is ‘complex, rich yet refreshing’ according to Charles.

Full yellow. It’s a rich Champagne, for sure, all toast, biscuits, yellow apple, and fresh custard. A rather toasty and advanced style – I wonder if it might be better when freshly disgorged. Has a lovely expressive yellow honey toasty honeycomb palate though, with a honeyed toasty palate that just drags you in. The standard Blanc de Blancs as a fresher wine was the winner for me today, even though this has more going on. 18/20, 93/100.

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: now
• Score (out of 20): 18
• Score (out of 100): 93
• Alcohol %:
• RRP (in $AUD):
• Winery website:
• Would I buy it?: