Kellybrook continues to go good, modern Yarra style. This is clever Chardonnay from Kellybrook’s Wonga Park Vineyard (known as Siwa, which sounds like an African game park). Whole-bunch-pressed, wild fermented in barrel. Crafty, Solidsy funk, a little custard powder, lots of funk. Underneath it’s a brisk and grapefruity Chardonnay though – tight and taut. Maybe too taut, but more than enough layers through the mid-palate to make it interesting. Yes, like.

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: now to at least five years
• Score (out of 20): 18
• Score (out of 100): 93
• Alcohol %: 12.5
• RRP (in $AUD): 45
• Winery website: https://www.kellybrookwinery.com.au/
• Would I buy it?: sure would