There’s a fascinating grower/winemaker relationship that happens behind the scenes at the Willowlake Vineyard, as I explained in this yarn. It’s a grand plot, and wines like this Kellybrook Willowlake Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021 show the glory. It’s a ruby-coloured Yarra Pinot, with a little orange, the style rather robust and drying. It’s Pinot of heart, with mushroom and stewed raspberry and this drive that the mid-weight palate belies. Unquestioned savoury charm, and length for days, even if those tannins are a bit serious.

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: nowish
• Score (out of 20): 18.5
• Score (out of 100): 94
• Alcohol %: 13.5
• RRP (in $AUD): 45
• Winery website: https://www.kellybrookwinery.com.au/
• Would I buy it?: worth a bottle