I rather look forward to these Sapling Yard wines. Proper lively (and beyond) whites and reds with interest. The Sapling Yard Fiori 2023 is the Alsace-take, but it’s a more fragrant and frisky thing that is more Canberra than Colmar. Riesling, Pinot Gris, Muscat, Pinot Blanc is the recipe, with the Pinot Blanc from Braidwood and the rest from the Lake George Vineyard. The Gris has a bit of skin contact, but this is pure and fresh rather than grippy – all fragrant grapefruit and lime, with flecks of talc, musk and pink fruit highlights. There’s a part of me that wishes this is thicker, riper wine, but the grapefruity, Riesling-y linearity is just as charming.

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: I like it now. It will live for an age
• Score (out of 20): 18
• Score (out of 100): 93
• Alcohol %: 11.5
• RRP (in $AUD): 32
• Winery website: https://www.saplingyard.com.au/
• Would I buy it?: sure would