Pleasure or potential? Or both? How I feel about this Castle Rock A & W Riesling changes at every moment. That’s because this doesn’t feel your usual effortless Porongunrup Riesling. No. This is a whole other level of seriousness. Whole bunch pressed, wild fermented, it feels uncomposed. Subdued. Less classical, with a little pyrazine, sour, pithy grapefruit and then a phenolic crunch. The power is unquestioned (hence the silver medal score), but the oversized structure makes this a work in progress. palate feels like a work in progress. Come back later when the structured palate gives a little fruit away.

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: later. Maybe even a year, but more like 3 or 4.
• Score (out of 20): 17.7
• Score (out of 100): 92
• Alcohol %: 12
• RRP (in $AUD): 45
• Winery website: https://castlerockestate.com.au/
• Would I buy it?: a glass or two