Man these Handpicked Chardonnay wine are clever. A bit too lean, sometimes, but super clever. This Handpicked Collection Tasmania Chardonnay 2021 is a perfect illustration. It smells so peachy and generous, but it’s not – underneath, it’s sleek, tight, and a bit bony. The reduction and careful lees/oak work will help this win trophies, but I want just a little more carry on the palate which falls away into acidity just a little too quickly. Still clean and very clever modern taut Chardonnay.

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: no hurry, up to a decade with this much structure
• Score (out of 20): 17.7
• Score (out of 100): 92
• Alcohol %: 12.2
• RRP (in $AUD): 45
• Winery website: https://handpickedwines.com.au/
• Would I buy it?: a few glasses.