So often, the Apricus Hill Chardonnay releases are the high point, but variability is a big thing. Every time I try these wines I want to go back to Denmark (the Australian one), which is a beautiful par of the world with lovely beaches. This ’23 looks too young, too unready. Buttered popcorn and vanilla bean oak, but then a strict and lean, just-ripe white peach palate finishing a bit sour. A little malo would go a long way. You pull all those disparate elements together, and this could be a winner. Come back later.

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: give it another 18 months
• Score (out of 20): 17
• Score (out of 100): 90
• Alcohol %: 13.5
• RRP (in $AUD): 40
• Winery website: https://www.singlevineyards.com/portfolio/apricus-hill/
• Would I buy it?: a glass