Another day, another mercurial Yarra release from Hirsch Hill. This Shiraz is one of the better releases too – a reserve release Yarra Valley Shiraz that spends 18 months in oak. Dusty, peppery berries are the first flavour, with a sprinkle of chocolate over that medium-weight, savoury, mushroomy savoury and joyous palate. In some lights, it appears underdone, and there is a bitter streak, but the proper cool clime Shiraz appeal is pretty obvious.

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: no hurry, will last a decade no probs
• Score (out of 20): 17.7
• Score (out of 100): 92
• Alcohol %: 13
• RRP (in $AUD): 58
• Winery website: https://www.hirschhill.com/
• Would I buy it?: a glass or so