Getting more of those Jura feels from Soumah’s Wild Savagnin No. 3

‘(We) wanted to see what a wine made from this ancient grape would have tasted like a thousand years ago’. That’s the fun mission statement for this Soumah Wild Savagnin No.3, which is another involving Australian take on a Jura ‘sous voile’ flor matured white (which ties in nicely after the Crittenden wine). Of course, this Yarra-sourced release is way too clean and polished to really taste like how wines might have tasted in 1025 (which were probably volatile af), but hey, let’s not mess with the narrative. Importantly, the winemaking intent is uncompromising, centring around a now ten-year-old solera system. Unlike some of the wilder Vin Jaune styles, however, this isn’t an oxidative style; it’s too pure for that. But no disguising the mothball for influence (for the yeast that helps fino sherry taste so wonderfully fucking weird), and it all gives this a real tang.

Let’s talk more about the winemaking because it’s worth laying out. You start with handpicked Yarra Valley Savagnin grapes, which are foot stomped and wild fermented in clay eggs, with minimal additions or filtration of any kind. That handling is all correct so far. It’s a brisk, slightly sour, angular thing too, with this almost saline nutty breeziness. I kept waiting for a buttery, golden oxidative complexity, but it never came – luckily, that tart and nutty lemony edge is so intense that it more than makes up for the slight lack of wildness. And the closer I looked, the more I really enjoyed the push and life here – it’s very drinkable, understated, even, for a style that is usually anything but. And the packaging? A statement in itself that my shit photos do no justice (have a better look on the Soumah website). I’m a fan.

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: now but its hardly going to fall over any time soon
• Score (out of 20): 18.5
• Score (out of 100): 94
• Alcohol %: 13.5
• RRP (in $AUD): 110
• Winery website: https://soumah.com.au/
• Would I buy it?: two glasses