The march towards ever more delicate versions of the Tapanappa Foggy Hill Pinot Noir continues. Each vintage, this Fleurieu Peninsula wine gets a little more contained, with a bit more Pinosity. That’s not saying the previous vintages of Brian Croser’s Pinot South Australian Pinot Noir opus haven’t looked like varietal, just that this wine can sometimes choose power over seduction. Interestingly, I feel this Tapanappa Foggy Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir 2023 has an Adelaide Hills vibe to it – something about the dark cherry fruit, which gives this a Lenswood Pinot Noir feel to get all nerdy. That has to be about the season, with 2023 at Foggy Hill recording a heat summation of 1233°C (expressed in Heat Degree Days), well below the 1336°C average. Lucid red, ripe and powerful, this is still a fuller style, with fruits that lean into the darker end of the red cherry spectrum and a whisper of bacon. The oak drives this along too, offering an extra layer, to what is already a layered wine. Medium, and maybe even medium to full-bodied, there’s a statement about the length that feels right – like it’s no bullshit, blue-chip, expensive suit-wearing Pinot Noir, but delivered with extra finesse and coolness this vintage. I like.
- Best drinking: good now, possibly even better in 2-3 years
- Score (out of 20): 18.5
- Score (out of 100): 94
- Alcohol %: 13.6
- RRP (in $AUD): 60
- Winery website: https://tapanappa.com.au/
- Would I buy it?: worth a bottle
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