Zonzo Estate is most famous for Limoncello Spritz, but the rest of the Caroline Mooney-crafted range of Yarra wines can be serious indeed, like this Zonzo Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2021. Mulchy, a bit leafy, this has proper Yarra clare feels, with black spice and a cocoa powder whisper. The challenge here is that underneath, it’s a bitter wine, all firm and drying edges with bottle age, making it even more mulchy. Ultimately the development and tannins way overshadow the fruit, though it’s super long. A little more generosity would go a long way.

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: nowish. No hurry.
• Score (out of 20): 17
• Score (out of 100): 90
• Alcohol %: 13.5
• RRP (in $AUD): 30
• Winery website: https://www.zonzo.com.au/
• Would I buy it?: a glass, maybe.