A proud bit of Hilltops style with the Hungerford Hill 2023 Shiraz

There are a handful of Australian wine regions that are famous, but not famous enough.

Hilltops is such a place.

With a long history of viticulture, a kaleidoscope of grape varieties and a reasonably grape-growing-friendly climate, the Hilltops ticks many boxes. Yet the roll call of renowned wines from this region is shamefully small.

Anyway, this Hungerford Hill Classic Hilltops Shiraz 2023 showcases plenty of the Hilltops potential. There’s this cherry almond chocolate wafer character that is pure Hilltops Shiraz, and yet despite the intensity, this weighs in at just 13% alcohol. A Cherry Ripe, plus a Kit Kat, some almonds, more cherries, and a palate that feels seriously bright and genteel without feeling hard or boozy. It’s not a big wine, but it does put its case really well.

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: now and for a decade
• Score (out of 20): 18
• Score (out of 100): 93
• Alcohol %: 13
• RRP (in $AUD): 45
• Winery website: https://hungerfordhill.com.au/
• Would I buy it?: half a bottle