2007 Margaret River reds: A rushed look at the icons
Had the opportunity to look at a collection of 2007 Margaret River reds (plus a few interlopers) today, including most of the absolute top wines from the region. It was a very rushed affair, so I’m not going to include scores, but an interesting benchmarking exercise nonetheless.
My favourites? 07 Vass Felix Heytesbury and the value pick of the Cape Mentelle Trinders
The wines (prices in brackets were prices on the day):
Vass Felix Heytesbury Cabernet 2007 ($70)
Big, thick and lavishly oaked, but also so very regional, so very Vasse Felix and very very attractive. A delicious and seamless Cabernet. I’m going to buy some…
Cullen Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2007 ($35)
Well priced. Much more fleshy and open than it’s sibling, but still recognisably a Cullen Cabernet (structured and fine boned). Medium bodied and tasty, lacking only a little stuffing to be truly convincing.
Cullen Diana Madeline Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2007 ($85)
Looking a bit sullen in this context, I think this is retreating into itself. Leave it in the cellar. Was a top wine 12 months ago, so I’m not worried.
Two interlopers
Frankland Estate Isolation Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($22)
At first I couldn’t believe this was a straight Cabernet given it’s quite meaty fruit expression. Regardless, it’s a dry and utterly cool climate style that is nothing if not distinctive. I quite liked it.
Frankland Estate Olmo’s Reward Merlot Cab Franc 2007 ($35)
Ah, a right bank blend! Much to like here, with a quite fleshy, long and dry palate driven by plush Merlot and the red fruit of Cabernet Franc. It’s again a cool climate wine, lighter and just a tad herbal around the edges, but again much to like.
Howard Park Abercrombie Cabernet Merlot 2007 ($79)
I only had the briefest of looks at this, but it did seem to be much bigger and riper this vintage, which is not surprising given that it is skewed towards Margaret River fruit this year. A revisit is in order.
Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($84)
It’s been whispered that this might be a smidgen OTT this year and I would tend to agree. Overoaked. So oaky that it tends to paper over all the good bits, like regional characters. I’m not going to write it off (there is excellent fruit underneath) but no question that it looked oak heavy and clunky in this lineup.
Cape Mentelle Trinders Cabernet Merlot 2007 ($24)
Delicious. Typically varietal and even a smidgen leafy, this is all blackcurrant and cassis in a dry and quite sophisticated style. Much drier and more serious than the base 07 Cullen Cab Merlot. Excellent value. Highly recommended.
Cape Mentelle Shiraz 2007 ($30)
I can’t call myself a fan of Margaret River Shiraz, but I can certainly see the appeal here. There is a cocoa butter meets dark spicy fruit character that is certainly appealing, especially when matched to a suitably long palate. It’s just not my favoured style of wine per se.
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11 Comments
The regular Vasse Felx cab sav from the 07 vintage is a ripper also, probably worth a look before you shell out twice the price for the Heytesbury.
timothy watson
Are you sure the Cape Mentelle Trinders was 08? It's not released yet so more likely to be the '07. Glad you enjoyed both the wines. Interesting coments about the Vasses Felix and Moss Wood – fruit and oak, you've got to find the balance.
Mat Janes
The '07 Trinders isn't bad at all too (i'm assuming that you did indeed try the '08 Andrew), and I did think about cellaring some. I might try another bottle before making up my mind.
MichaelC
Mat – thanks for the heads up, the tasting sheet supplied had it listed as an 08 but I didn't lay eyes on the bottle.
Retailer has confirmed that it was an 07 so I've fixed it up. Oh and completely agree on the balance of fruit and oak, which is such a subjective beast.
The balance of fruit and oak is also a matter of time. Moss Wood makes wine for the long run. A few weeks ago I had a 1991 Moss Wood, which was beautifully balanced. I am pretty certain the strength of the 07 fruit will win the day. You need to give it at least 10 years (which means it is not very suitable for 97% of wine drinkers).
Agreed on the balance and oak realigning with time Alontin, but I would argue that an overoaked wine will often stay overoaked (as witnessed by plenty of late 90's South Australian reds).
Loved the regular 07 Vasse Felix as well, so not surprising the Heytesbury is a good'un. Agreed on the Trinders and have a few in the cellar for the long haul.
Really looking forward to trying the 08s as they come out and being able to compare the two vintages.
Correct Andrew, some of the wines I have from the late 90s from SA are almost undrinkable for my tastes – '98 Wynns Michael Shiraz anyone? The oak is almost becoming more assertive with age.
MichaselC
I think it depends on the strength of the underlying fruit. I agree with the comments about SA wines from the 90s. Anonymous, have you tried the '90 Wynns Michael? The worst oaked example I have ever come across.
Does the quality of the oak/ 100% new Oak make a difference? I would assume many of the wines that are over-oaked (and which get worse with age) are made from 100% new oak and not neccessarily top quality/carefully selected oak as well (based on some of the oak chip in a glass reds with 10+ years on them that I have tasted. Some Hunter wineries over-oaked their Reds in the lat 90s as well – a trend I am glad to see the back of (good to see more of the large oak barrell, old oak wines being made)
Cheers
RB
No Alontin, I don't go back that far in my cellar – but I've heard stories of that wine! I will keep away. I almost crazily bought one in Melbourne a few months back – saw a heap of them in a shop in Carlton – but thought better of it, not knowing its provenance.
RB, I think the quality of oak certainly does make a difference. As for the Hunter, when there last year there were still a couple of wineries making (for my tastes) quite hideously oaked Shiraz, which was a shame because the quality of fruit was high. In fact, some of the worst new French oak I've seen (apparently using French oak and parading it boldly on the label is meant to assure us that all French things are beautiful).
MichaelC